It’s been a while as there has been no Internet - just snow capped mountains.After leaving the frozen wilderness that is Yellowstone National Park we were not expecting that much of Idaho or northern Nevada. If it was not for the need to quickly (2 weeks) head to our next camping reservation for Yosemite National Park (California) then we may have taken a different… maybe a more northern route. It’s difficult to get too work up over a state that is famous for it’s potatoes and neo-Nazi’s (Idaho) or one that had to legalise gambling to survive. We have already been into the southern tip of Nevada (4 times on Valentines Day but that’s another story) the Las Vegas area where around half the population of 2.5m live but the rest of the state is nothing like it. So… Idaho - green fields, rolling hills, forest and mountains (not many people) and Nevada - mountainous, sagebrush, high desert and few people… both are… how can we put it… pretty empty. Nevada did have the stunningly beautiful Ruby Mountains named after the little lady herself maybe : )
The strange thing was that as we crossed these two fairly unremarkable landscapes (we have just come from Yellowstone) we were unexpectedly drawn to the history of the area and the numerous routes across it. There are so few roads and choice was limited so you can relax into the drive and look around a bit. Historical Site markers where everywhere and we seemed to be continuously criss-crossing numerous historical trails? We had stumbled across some of the major East – West routes for emigrants flooding into the promised land of California and Oregon during the last century. In fact just to confuse us Idaho didn’t exist then (1800’s) as it was part of Oregon but the important thing was that just like us this mass exodus were travelling from east to west and the modern roads tend to follow the same basic route.
Virtually everywhere we stopped another part of the puzzle emerged creating a huge kaleidoscope of colourful events and individuals. Place names, campsites, river crossings, wagon tracks even old wagons and ferries left and preserved for a history deprived and hungry audience.When we Europeans think history, we think of kings and castles etc. It is often a bit removed and difficult to relate to. This history comes complete with all the original artefacts, real people records / diaries, photos and even cine film! You would laugh at some of the things the average American thinks of as an antique – Ronnie (Den’s father) had a shed full of these antiques - did he not Anthony?
So to cut a long story short these trails witness unbelievable tales of real endeavour and sadness, that strength of character in a raw form can still be seen in many of the traditional past-times of modern America… the pioneer spirit. Before the coming of the rail road, in just over 20 years (1840 – 1860) over 300,000 people braved the 1,700 mile Oregon Trail and 250,000 the 2,000 mile California Trail. If like us you have walked part of the trail only to come face to face with the prospect of crossing the fast flowing and half mile wide snake river at 3 island crossing (Glenns Ferry) in a wooded wagon pulled by oxen then you too would ask the only question that matters WHY?.. Why risk everything you own even down to the lives of your children and family? The answer says something about the human condition, they were sold a dream. The American dream… Oregon was the land of rich pasture and milk and honey… California had freedom, gold and some very good wine : ) The journey offered opportunity and fulfilment of a huge range of personal motivators including poverty, hunger, marriage (by 1860 two thirds were women), health and freedom from persecution, religious or otherwise. At this point it would be interesting to contrast this with at the plight of the indigenous American people… but that’s another blog - NB there is still time for us to be deported.
All that and maybe you just wanted to know where we had been rather than all this reflection…Yellowstone, back through the Grand Tetons as the footnote in the last blog…
Craters of the Moon National Park, Idaho - black volcanic landscape with dark, wet, cold lava ‘tubes’ to explore, except where they had collapsed and then they were full of snow. Not Jane’s idea of fun.
Glenns Ferry, Idaho then South Fork State Recreation Area (SRA), Nevada – see above Did we mention the unforgettable Ruby Mountains and our secluded (only us in the restaurant) dinner at Carmela Winery?
Rye Patch SRA, Nevada… where we were treated to a couple of hours watching a mixed flock of birds eating insects off the bark of the nearby cottonwood trees. These included some pretty exotic birds but none more so that the pretty little Lazuli Bunting (male is blue, orange and white).Washoe Lake (near Carson City) Nevada - a great view over the Lake to the cold and imposing snow capped Sierra Nevada mountains in California. To think they crossed these mountains in their little open wagons and this year - even with an army of snow moving equipment the pass will not be open until July 4th at the earliest! Er… Yes… they know it was the highest snow fall and latest spring for 30 years Jane : )
Take care
PS California to follow very soon...
